Thursday, 21 February 2013

‘Conversations’: In search of the Dilliwallah-III


While Hashmat Begum’s story gives an insight into the life of an average resident of the walled city, it also leaves many questions unanswered. And this, in turn, leads us to the other facets of life in Delhi. Talking only about the lost charm of Old Delhi can never complete the picture of the quintessential Dilliwallah. That focus must move to the New Delhi that came up under the British rule. The earliest of British residents lived in Shahjahanabad, in sprawling mansions, willingly and lovingly opening themselves to the tastes and lifestyle of the city’s population. This proximity was precisely what compounded the horrors of the 1857 mutiny as the earliest of mutineers to have entered the city dragged its British inmates out of their houses and vengefully butchered them in its streets. The British forces returned to settle scores but the mutiny made them realize that it wasn’t safe to live among the natives. The British decided to build the Civil Lines, to the north of the walled city, which followed the European pattern of town planning with wide and straight roads, lined by symmetrically shaped houses on either sides. This was the birthplace of the cosmopolitan Delhi.

Civil Lines was succeeded by the British capital of New Delhi. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and full of broad vistas intersecting each other at right angles, the brand new capital was an unprecedented example of the European idea of a city. The British rule created the modern middle class in India, composed of families exposed to western education and sensibilities. It was the salaried class that worked for the government and those who were part of it were transferred from one location to another, depending not on their personal ethnic preferences but the requirement of the government apparatus. This migratory pattern of people in the services opened Delhi to a new kind of residents – the bureaucrats. These government servants came in hordes once Delhi became the capital of British India as they were required to work in the different public offices that the city now housed. They were the original bourgeoisie of modern Delhi. They were exposed to the western cosmopolitan ideas and were forward looking. They had made western education accessible to their children too, believing in letting the daughters have equal opportunities as the sons.

One such daughter is Mrs. Padma Chander who is in her eighties and lives in Sarvapriya Vihar. Her association with Delhi goes back a long way. Mrs. Chander grew up in the city through the thirties and forties. Her family lived in a flat in Connaught Place and she would walk to her school at Panchkuian Road. Mrs. Chander’s father worked for the British army, in the accounts department. After school, she joined the Isabel Thoburn College in Lucknow for her bachelors. She returned to Delhi in 1946, after four years of undergraduate studies, to pursue an MA in English Literature and joined the Indraprastha College. Delhi was a lot safer back then, she remembers. The hostel at Indraprastha used to be in a bungalow a little away from the college and she never had a problem walking the distance, even in the night. The free time was spent listening to radio or shopping and eating with friends in Old Delhi. However, she never felt very happy in the Indraprastha hostel. Most of her classmates were from Chandni Chowk and she didn’t have much in common with them. There were no activities to get involved in after the classes, unlike Isabel where the campus life was quite alive. She expressed her distress to a friend called Joy Michael, a firebrand student from St. Stephen’s who went on to become an internationally acclaimed theatre artist, who spoke to the vice-chancellor and helped her move to the St. Stephen’s girls’ hostel near Kashmere Gate,  and here she felt more at ease.

Mrs. Chander finished her MA in 1948. That was the time when Delhi was experiencing widespread communal strife because of partition. Her family was warned against moving out with their guards down. Their friends feared they might get targeted because they looked like Muslims. It was a difficult phase. The Muslims in the neighborhood felt very threatened. Most of the ones living in Connaught Place left. She remembers this one Muslim man who was found, to their bewilderment, hiding in his flat for over a month without much food and water because he feared getting attacked by the Hindus living around him. She was sent to Bombay, away from the city’s disturbances, where her parents lived and, then, she moved to Pune for a year to pursue B.Ed. after which she returned to Delhi.

Her fondest memories are associated with Connaught Place. The inner circle had fewer cars but lots of tongas. Her brothers would often treat her at a restaurant called Davico’s, located above Regal Cinemas. Vegetable vendors would frequent their neighborhood and they lowered a stringed basket to take up the purchase. There used to be a coffee shop at Janpath and if her brothers called them, their bearer would bring the coffee all the way to their flat in the B Block, something hard to imagine in today’s CP. She remembers that there were lots of open spaces in Delhi and the civic amenities were in a great shape. There was place available everywhere, in the buses and trams, in schools and colleges. There was no hastiness about anything. Fashion, too, was very basic. Girls wore either sarees or salwar-kameez and boys opted for shirts and kurtas.

After partition, the refugees came in. While many came from rural Punjab, there were others from places like Lahore and Rawalpindi. The latter were artistically inclined and tried to recreate the cultural ambience of Punjab in Delhi. One such person was Late Mrs. Shiela Bhatia, considered to be the grand dame of Punjabi opera and who happened to be Mrs. Chander’s sister-in-law. Shiela ji, along with many others, helped revive the theatre in Delhi. She remembers frequenting the Sapru House on Barakhamba Road to watch plays. This predates the establishment of the National School of Drama which made Mandi House Delhi’s cultural hub. In 1957, she got married to eminent journalist and theatre critic Late Mr. Romesh Chander.

Soon after their marriage, they moved to Jaipur, where their children were born. Mr. Chander also worked for the government and was sent to London, along with the family, for a six months long training programe. After returning to India, he assisted in the launch of Doodarshan, assuming the role of its first Director-General and, thus, ushering India into a new era of information and communication. With this the family moved to Kaka Nagar. Mr. Chander was the only person there who owned a television. The family’s drawing room would witness an overflow of people who came to watch the movie on Sunday afternoons. In fact, they moved to a ground floor flat to be able to accommodate the crowd. By this time, Mrs. Chander had started teaching at RS Junior Modern School. Television, she remembers, was a part of the school curriculum. There were specific periods designated where children were taken to watch educational content on television. The student-teacher ratio was as low as 1:25 which meant a more affectionate relationship shared between them.

Though highly inaccessible, television had become a very important part of the public life. Many important events like Nehru’s funeral was broadcasted live on it, Mr. Chander doing the commentary for part of it. He lived in Kaka Nagar till up to his retirement after which the family moved to Defence Colony. The later years saw Delhi changing like never before. Something even as basic as transport became a problem. Life in the early years was far more sedate, interspersed with picnics to the Qutb area, where families would travel with a motorcade and the cooking arrangement.

Central Delhi itself was very different. The northern and central ridges were covered in a thick jungle, beyond the Gole market. Yamuna, too, was much cleaner. Mrs. Chander’s goes back to her days as a student and, then, a teacher and recalls how different things were in those days. Children loved and felt belongingness for their surroundings, their home, parents, institutions and the city. Much of it has changed and she blames it on the lack of good parenting. Another major change in the demographics of the classroom has been that second, third and fourth generation learners are all clubbed together and a difference in their approach towards education reflects evenly across the classroom. She can’t point a finger at any one particular trait that sets the Dilliwallah apart. She finds it easier to do that for someone from Lucknow, who is more sophisticated, or Tehzeeb-dar, or a South Indian who is quite particular about hygiene and cleanliness. Maybe it is easier only for an outsider to tell as to what makes us so different.

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